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The NA Brake Conversion
AWD Brakes on FWD 3000GT/Stealth

 

FWD 3000GT/Stealth owners an actually get the benefit of big brakes using the AWD VR4/TT brake components. 3SX carries FWD big brake bolt-on kits listed on the Brakes page, but this gives an alternative using a mix of OEM and aftermarket parts. This brief guide is for those owners of FWD non-turbo 3000GT/Stealths that want a big brake upgrade, but not one of the aftermarket kits.

You will need the following parts for FRONT:

* AWD Brake Calipers Left+Right
* AWD Brake Rotors Pair
* AWD Brake Pads Front Set
* AWD Front Knuckles Left+Right
* AWD Front Hubs/Bearings x 2
* AWD Front Tie Rod Ends x2
* Optional: ABS Sensors x 2
* Optional: ABS Rings for half-shafts x 2


You will need the following parts for REAR:

* AWD Brake Calipers Left+Right
* AWD Brake Pads Rear Set (to match generation of calipers using)
* You do NOT use AWD rear rotors - you still use FWD rear rotors.


Recommended components - "since you're in there":

* New Front Ball Joints
* 3SX Stainless Braided Brake Lines - FWD / NA (you do NOT use the AWD brake lines)
* New front brake line connectors
* SpeedBleeders to simplify bleeding the system
* Motul 600 Brake Fluid - 2 bottles for a full system flush and bleed


FRONT NOTES:

You can use either Gen1 (91-93) or Gen2 (94-99) AWD parts, but you will need to get rotors and calipers from same generation as the Gen1 calipers will not fit the larger Gen2 Rotors.

The FWD rotors are about 10.75", the Gen1 front rotors are about 11.5", and the Gen2 rotors are about 12.25", so you are gaining a LOT of braking surface if you upgrade to a Gen2 setup.

The knuckles are the same for all years on the AWD, as are the front hubs, so they can come from any year and work the same. The generational difference is in the calipers, the Gen2 calipers have longer "arms" connecting to the knuckles, thus use the same pads for all years.

If you have ABS on your FWD and want to maintain it, you will need a pair of front ABS sensors and a pair of AWD ABS rings that get hammered onto the end of your FWD half-shafts. You don't need the AWD shafts.

 

REAR NOTES:

The only thing really needed is rear calipers and pads. That being said, it's only really even worth doing the swap if you have Gen2 rear calipers as they are a 2-piston caliper while the Gen1 rear calipers are a single-piston setup just like the FWD rear brakes.

You still use your FWD rear rotors, but AWD rear pads. The TT pads will hang off the edge of the NA rotor a little, that's ok and has not proven to be an issue.

You will probably have to do a little grinding on the caliper (see pics below) to get clearance on the rotors. It's close and it seems that some cars don't need it while others do.

 

GENERAL NOTES:

* * * BIG NOTE * * * You can NOT use the Gen2 calipers on the stock NA wheels!!! When you make the conversion to Gen2 VR4 brakes, you put yourself into the category of needing wheels that fit 94-99 VR4 cars. Some of the NA rims will work with the Gen1 brakes - the 94-96 SL wheels (alloy 7-straight-spoke 16x8) will fit a 91-93 VR4/TT. The AWD rear brakes have not presented any known issues with caliper-to-wheel clearance on FWD wheels.

You still use your NA/FWD brake lines. If you are purchasing aftermarket brake lines (recommended) do NOT get the AWD lines - the rear lines are different and will not work on the FWD platform. Purchase the FWD brake lines.

It's a given - you will LOSE power and 1/4 mile speed. Eric lost about 1/4 second in the 1/4 mile after making the swap. The AWD rotors are significantly heavier than the FWD rotors, as well as 1.5" larger in diameter. But on the flip side of that, what you lose in straight line acceleration, you more than gain in braking ability for autocross and road course racing.

It is a DIY job if you have some mechanical abilities and tools for working on the car.

When Eric did his conversion, a sledgehammer was used to free up the knuckle from the control arm as the knuckle was pretty well stuck on the ball joint (added note: a pitman arm puller could be used if you have one available or can borrow/rent one - we don't recommend a pickle fork as that will destroy the ball joint boots). A mix of new and used parts were used. New parts: rotors, pads, lines, front line connectors, tie rod ends, hub bearings, ABS rings. Used parts: knuckles, calipers, ABS sensors.

 


 

 

 
Pictures and writeup provided by Eric Bowden who did the above conversion on his Stealth RT several years ago. 3SX has performed the swap a number of times as well.
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