3SX Performance Polyurethane Motor Mounts / Engine Mounts - 3000GT / Stealth (all years/models)

3SX Performance Polyurethane Motor Mounts
3000GT / Stealth (all years/models)

Does your engine move all over when you step on the gas? Do you hear a big klunk when you hit the gas? Worn motor mounts can hinder performance because the motor moves more than it should and can lead to other damage like torn vacuum lines, leaking tranny/axle seals, broken exhaust (blown flex-section), etc.

                             Upper Engine                                                      Transmission

                                 Lower Front                                                       Lower Rear

Replace those worn out factory rubber motor mounts with 3SX Performance Motor Mounts! Custom made with a solid polyurethane compound, these NEW mounts will keep the motor where it's supposed to be, and not let it twist and torque around in the engine bay when under throttle. See the video below for an example of bad motor mounts.

Since we are using all NEW mount casings, we are no longer offering the steel upper engine mount. But don't fret! The mounts are universal to the 3000GT/Stealth/GTO and the aluminum upper will work in 90% of years and models!  Many first generation guys get to save a few pounds as well. :-)

Note: These are performance bushings and are harder than the stock rubber mounts. You will feel an increase in vibration in the car when at idle, but ride quality while driving should not be affected as inherent road vibrations will prevail over that of the mounts when driving.

3SX HIGHLY recommends replacing your engine mounts NOW.
  The youngest of the 3000GT/Stealth is over 20 years old.  Time and wear lead to your engine mounts potentially looking like these pictured here - actual cores sent in from customers - we get TONS that look like this and worse...  The engine moving around more than it should due to bad mounts can lead not only to random clunks and bangs, but also actually damage things like axle seals, downpipe flex sections, transfer case seals, u-joints and carrier bearings, and more.  All of these can cost WAY more than simply solving the actual root of the problem and replacing the motor mounts.

Bad.... Very bad.

INSTALLATION TIPS
When installing these motor mounts, we recommend that you leave the bolts a little loose until all bolts are in place, then tighten them leaving the front for last as the larger bored pin is specifically to allow for variances in vehicle production.  Leaving the bolts loose until all are in place will allow the engine to easily pivot and move around while you are getting the other mounts in place.  You will most likely need at least a big pry-bar to push/lift the engine to get the mounts to line up.  You can also use a jack on the underside to support the engine/transmission - DO NOT LIFT BY THE OIL PAN as this will dent the bottom pickup bowl and can lead to catastrophic engine failure.  An engine hoist with a leveler will also work as that will allow you to easily lift and tilt the engine as needed.

Motor Mount Movie - "Jump Around!"

Ever wonder what bad mounts really look like? At the Charlotte Gathering 2003, we had about a dozen cars on the dyno. That made it VERY easy to see who needed motor mounts as it was normal driving stress on the engine - more than just revving the motor because the wheels are actually turning, generating actual driving resistance and torque on the engine. Watch the video (20 seconds) and see just what's going on under your hood if your motor mounts are bad. You just might be surprised... Yikes!!

** If your Gen1 Cars have the centered upper mount (pictured below), these will be VERY difficult to install.